El Yunque Rainforest Tours from San Juan

The forest is about 45 minutes east of San Juan by road, but the tours on offer run from three to seven hours. A seven-hour day spends roughly two of them in the vehicle. If you only want the waterslide and one waterfall, a half-day tour covers it; if you want to walk the trails, take the long one.

Laguna Grande near Fajardo is the one you can do as an evening trip from San Juan and be back the same night. Mosquito Bay on Vieques is the brightest of the three but needs a ferry and an overnight stay. La Parguera in the southwest is the only one where swimming is allowed. All of them are dimmest around full moon, so check the lunar calendar before fixing a date.

No. The old city is built on a headland with sea walls, not sand. The nearest swimmable beach is Escambrón, about five minutes by taxi, and it has a reef close to shore. Condado and Isla Verde are the hotel beaches, ten to twenty minutes further east.

Not for Old San Juan, the beaches or the salsa — those are walking or short taxi distance. For El Yunque, the ziplines, the caves or the ferry port you either rent a car or book a tour with pickup. Note that the motorway tolls are electronic; ask the rental company how it bills them before you drive off.

Two different ways, and they leave from two different towns. The excursion boats and catamarans depart Fajardo, about an hour east. The public passenger ferry no longer sails from Fajardo — it leaves from Ceiba, roughly 75 minutes from San Juan. Book the ferry well ahead in high season; a day trip that misses it is a wasted day.

December to April is the driest and busiest stretch. Hurricane season runs from June through November, with the highest risk from August to October — trips get cancelled and refunded then, but a week can also pass with nothing worse than afternoon showers. Sunset shifts only between about 5.50 p.m. in December and 7.10 p.m. in June.